Definitions of Types of Leather

All skins have two sides, the outside, or hair side, and the inside, or the side against the muscle tissue.  Either one side of the hide or the other can be processed to produce the desired type of leather.

~     Full-Grain leathers are clean natural hides from which the hair has been removed, but the hides have not been sanded to remove imperfections.  Only the finest raw materials are used for these leathers.  The grain remains in its natural state which preserves fiber strength, and results in exceptional durability and breathability.  Rather than wearing out, the natural full-grain surface will develop a natural "Patina" and grow more beautiful over time.  Full grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.

~     Nappa is full grain leather finished to a luxuriously smooth, wrinkle free surface.  A “naked finished” nappa leather has a non-shiny, non-slick finish that lets you feel the luxury of the leather directly.  Nappa leather can be dyed in a variety of colors and treated for a selection of special finishes such as distressed or shrunken effects.  Nappa is durable, can withstand water easily, and cleans well with water.

~     Belting leather is full grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery.  It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish.  Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy-weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather.

~     Top-Grain leather, also known as Corrected-Grain leather, is fuzzy on one side and smooth on the other.  The smooth side is the side where the hair and natural grain used to be, the natural grain has been sanded off, and an artificial grain is applied.  These leathers are made from inferior quality hides and generally must be heavily painted to cover up the sanding and stamping operation.  Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

~     Nubuck is top-grain leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface.  It is usually produced from cattle hide, but deerskin, and lambskin nubuck are also produced, and are noted for their exceptional softness.  Nubuck leather can be dyed in a variety of colors and treated for a selection of special finishes such as distressed or shrunken effects.  Nubuck is durable, can withstand water easily, and cleans well with water.

~     Genuine Suede is produced from the inside the hide.  The back side of a suede skin is the top grain, or outside of the hide, so genuine suede will not have two fuzzy sides.  Genuine suede is very soft and has a wonderful drape.  It has the tensile strength of top grain and can be cleaned with water.

~     Split Suede is leather that is an interior split of a thicker hide and is “fuzzy” on both sides.  The tanner splits the top grain of the hide away from the inner “drop” split producing a sheet of leather that is fuzzy on both sides.  In very thick hides the drop split can be split again into a middle split or flesh split.  Split suede tends to be stiffer than genuine suede, is offered at a lower price than genuine suede, and is considered a lower grade suede.  Split suede is less durable than full-grain and is cheaper than full-grain because many pieces of suede can be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of full-grain can be mad.  The strongest suede is usually made from grain splits or from a flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness.  Modern manufacturers now use a variety of techniques to make suede appear to be full-grain such as mixing glue with one side of the suede, then pressing it through rollers to flatten and even out the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain.

~     Latigo is the trade names for one type of suede product that has been made to look like full-grain.

~     Buckskin is brained-tanned deer leather that has a supple, suede-like quality, and is often smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting.

~     Patent Leather is leather that has been given a high gloss finish.  Modern patent leather usually has a plastic coating.

~     Vachetta leather is untreated leather used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags, popularized by designer Louis Vuitton.  Since this leather is untreated it is susceptible to water and stains.  Sunlight will cause it to darken in shade, called a patina.

~     Slink is particularly soft leather made from the skin of unborn calves.

~     Rawhide is made by scraping the skin until it is thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries.  It is not technically leather because it does not undergo a tanning process.  Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather, and is primarily used where it does not need to flex significantly, such as with drum heads.  Rawhide is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching.

~     Bonded Leather, or Reconstituted Leather, is not true leather but is man-made material composed of leather fibers bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of genuine leather.  Bonded leather can be manufactured at a fraction of the cost of other leathers, but is not as durable as other leathers, and is recommended for products that will be used infrequently.

~    Bicast Leather is not true leather, but a man-made product that consists of a thick layer of polyurethane applied to a substrate of low-grade or reconstituted leather. Most of the strength of bicast leather comes from the polyurethane coating, which allows this material to be used where strength or durability are required.